Thursday, March 24, 2011
Booby Trap your Bike
This link, How to booby-trap your bike when you forget your lock! , has a great idea for securing your bike (sort of) when you are out for a ride and make an unexpected stop. It was too cool to not share. Thanks Bicycling magazine.
Wednesday, March 23, 2011
Buying a used road bike...
I am asked occasionally about my opinion about buying a used road bike. Here's some things to consider if you are thinking of buying a used one...
* The chain is the first thing to wear out. They are good for about 2k miles max if not kept clean and lubed. If it appears to have a lot of gunk on it you should check closely. A simple way to check the chain is to have it gauged at a shop, or, it is simple to do it yourself. Measure a section of chain that is straight (at least eight links). Holding a tape measure at 1" mark, measure back to as far back as possible in a straight line to another pin that hits an even inch mark. If the chain is new each link pin should be exactly 1" apart (pin center to pin center). When worn as little as 1/32 inch on this type of drive train it will cause shifting problems. A new chain on a nine speed drive train is anywhere from $20 - $50. Ten speed is $35 - $60
* If the chain is well worn it is likely the cassette is also on its way to being replaced. A new cassette will last about 4k miles if kept clean. That is a little harder to gauge so I would suggest bringing it in to a shop to gauge the wear.
* Tires- If a flat spot is found all the way around on the rear tire it was probably used on a trainer. It is not critical, but, flat spots will cause poor cornering. Check the front also, some people mistakenly put a worn rear on the front which is a bad idea. Now we're talking about real bad cornering. This is wear the rubber meets the road. If you are not sure if the tires will last think replacement.
* Check brake pads for wear
* Spin wheels and check to be sure they are "true". Small wobbles can be fixed, kinks in the rim are a warning to possibly stay away. A hump, or flat spot in the wheel will make it seem like you are riding a washboard. Small variations can be fixed, large humps are a warning to stay away.
As you look around keep this in mind. The stiffest bikes, and most suited to competitive riding will have frames made with all carbon or aluminum/carbon combinations. For comfort the best frame material will be all carbon (high end) or steel. Steel and carbon absorb road vibrations. Carbon equals that comfort, but, at a price. Steel frames are a good value. The bottom line is a racer wants a stiff bike that transmits all the power to the pedals into speed. A less competitive rider, wanting comfort will look for steel, carbon or alum/carbon combos.
* The chain is the first thing to wear out. They are good for about 2k miles max if not kept clean and lubed. If it appears to have a lot of gunk on it you should check closely. A simple way to check the chain is to have it gauged at a shop, or, it is simple to do it yourself. Measure a section of chain that is straight (at least eight links). Holding a tape measure at 1" mark, measure back to as far back as possible in a straight line to another pin that hits an even inch mark. If the chain is new each link pin should be exactly 1" apart (pin center to pin center). When worn as little as 1/32 inch on this type of drive train it will cause shifting problems. A new chain on a nine speed drive train is anywhere from $20 - $50. Ten speed is $35 - $60
* If the chain is well worn it is likely the cassette is also on its way to being replaced. A new cassette will last about 4k miles if kept clean. That is a little harder to gauge so I would suggest bringing it in to a shop to gauge the wear.
* Tires- If a flat spot is found all the way around on the rear tire it was probably used on a trainer. It is not critical, but, flat spots will cause poor cornering. Check the front also, some people mistakenly put a worn rear on the front which is a bad idea. Now we're talking about real bad cornering. This is wear the rubber meets the road. If you are not sure if the tires will last think replacement.
* Check brake pads for wear
* Spin wheels and check to be sure they are "true". Small wobbles can be fixed, kinks in the rim are a warning to possibly stay away. A hump, or flat spot in the wheel will make it seem like you are riding a washboard. Small variations can be fixed, large humps are a warning to stay away.
As you look around keep this in mind. The stiffest bikes, and most suited to competitive riding will have frames made with all carbon or aluminum/carbon combinations. For comfort the best frame material will be all carbon (high end) or steel. Steel and carbon absorb road vibrations. Carbon equals that comfort, but, at a price. Steel frames are a good value. The bottom line is a racer wants a stiff bike that transmits all the power to the pedals into speed. A less competitive rider, wanting comfort will look for steel, carbon or alum/carbon combos.
Saturday, July 3, 2010
Chain Watchers, Catchers, Protectors...
Have you dropped a chain lately? You know, you've started up a hill and went to downshift to your small ring and the chain falls off and lands on the frame by the bottom bracket. Adjustments will help eliminate "most" of these dropped chain situations, however, even the pros are moving toward chain watchers, catchers or protectors. These are simple little devices that weigh almost nothing and allow you to have nice crisp downshifts without the apprehension of the possibility of dropping the chain. I can install one of these great little devices for around $15. Give it a try.
Check out this review... Armstrongs Chain Catcher ready for Tour
Wednesday, April 7, 2010
Panasonic Sport 500 Ten Speed...
A nice Panasonic Sport 500 ten speed. New tires, tubes, cables, saddle. Asking $125
I am alway looking for good Panasonic, Fuji, Schwinn, Raleigh models from the 70s and 80s. In almost any condition. There's nothing quite like a Panasonic Sport 1000 with new aero brake levers, new high pressure tires and updated derailleurs. Let me know if you know of anyone thinking of tossing that old ten speed.
Jamis Dakota 29er Special
SOLD! Thanks for looking!
I have a new, old stock 2007 Jamis Dakota 29er that really needs a rider.
This hardtail originally listed at $1235 and my "normal" price is $1112. Until it finds a new home it will be offered at $890.
Check out the specs at
http://www.bikepedia.com/Quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2007&Brand=Jamis&Model=Dakota+29%27er&Type=bike
I sell only fully assembled, tuned bikes. Don't even ask me to ship it anywhere.
I have a new, old stock 2007 Jamis Dakota 29er that really needs a rider.
Check out the specs at
http://www.bikepedia.com/Quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2007&Brand=Jamis&Model=Dakota+29%27er&Type=bike
I sell only fully assembled, tuned bikes. Don't even ask me to ship it anywhere.
Saturday, March 27, 2010
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